Here are a few photos of the fluorescent marigolds growing by our home. They literally glow in the sun. People don't believe us when we tell them that every single marigold they see has re-seeded itself from last year's flowers. I know it doesn't appear so, but we really did try to thin them out. They have been re-seeding like this for years. I originally bought three or four 6-packs of 'Bonanza Gold' 8-10" marigolds maybe five years ago. They are super hardy and pop up all over, so we relocated a few of the seedlings where we wanted them. We even rescued some seedlings from cracks in the sidewalk. These are some crazy, happy plants!

Tip: We planted marigolds in front of our daylilies so when Fall arrives all the daylily foliage is covered up completely.

Photos by Ange and Jade Anderson

October has arrived and we are under pressure to do last-minute transplanting and prep our gardens for winter before the impending first frost. Every weed we can remove now is one less weed waiting for us in the spring. Which brings me to the topic of crabgrass...could there be a weed that's more persistent?

My son helped me with some daylily transplanting last weekend. Firestorm (pictured) is one of the daylilies he dug up. We found the dang crabgrass not only tangled up *within* Firestorm's rhizomes, but also growing directly *through* Firestorm's rhizomes! (See photos below) And those rhizomes are dense and hard! That's how tenacious crabgrass is.

Crabgrass is an annual weed that invades flower beds and lawns.  A single crabgrass plant can produce 150,000 seeds during the growing season, and that's why controlling it is so difficult.

Organic mulches can help manage crabgrass in garden beds. Covering the soil with a mulch blocks light from the seeds and prevents them from sprouting. Spread a two- to three-inch layer of fine mulch or a three- to six-inch layer of coarse mulch, avoiding plant stems. Fine mulches include leaf mold, garden compost and well-rotted manure. Wood chips, shredded bark and straw are some examples of coarse mulches. Be sure to replace the mulch layer as it thins out. Mulches are not entirely foolproof, but they sure do help!

For more crabgrass information:
https://homeguides.sfgate.com/garden-care-tips-kill-crabgrass-killing-plants-104109.html
https://naturalawn.com/lawn-care-tips/crabgrass-what-it-is-what-it-looks-how-remove-it

Ahhhh...September....the month we Northern gardeners try to remedy our planting fails from the previous spring by juggling daylilies around the yard. My friend Sally and I like to refer to this as the 'Domino Effect' because in order to move *one* daylily to a new spot, it seems like an entire chain reaction of plant-moving needs to take place before that *one* daylily can be put in its place.

The Domino Effect reminds me of these three Murphy's Laws:

• #5. Nothing is as easy as it looks
• #6. Everything takes longer than you think, and
• #11. If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked something

Why move daylilies around? A daylily's registration information can vary greatly as to how that plant grows in your garden, due to differences in sun, soil, temperature, and location. Planting is definitely a trial-and-error endeavor until you get to know how a particular plant behaves in your unique situation.

Here are just a few examples of why you'd want to move a plant:

• A daylily may need  more sun because it has a low bloom count
• A plant could be crying out for more shade because the color fades in the sun
• It grew taller than expected and obscured the plants behind it
• It grew shorter than expected and disappeared within the flower bed
• Bloom times were off -- one section of the garden somehow ended up with all early bloomers and by the beginning of August there were no blooms at all
• You may want to change-up color combinations to make your garden more aesthetically pleasing
• Finally, every season plants arrive and plants depart from the garden; when replacing daylilies, the size or bloom time of the new plant rarely matches that of the previous one

I have yet to encounter a year without experiencing the Domino Effect. And as a gardener, I suspect you haven't either!

Daylily pictured: 'Techny Spider' with a companion ant

Are there any other gardeners out there that dislike black walnut trees as much as I do? We have cut down quite a few black walnut trees on our own property, but are still surrounded by many more of them. Every fall the trees drop black walnuts in our yard and on the road in front of our house.  You can hear the loud  'pop, pop, pop, pop' of the shells being crushed as the cars drive over them. It sometimes sounds like a machine gun!

Black Walnut Positives:

• We filled and donated several buckets of black walnuts to our local Community Hunger Task Force Garden.
• Occasionally people who drive by stop and ask if they can gather walnuts; we are more than happy to oblige.
• The crows like to eat the nut meats.
• Our neighbor down the road is a wood-carver. After we cut one of our trees down we gave him the choice wood for carving. Now I have a beautiful black walnut bowl that he made for us as a thank you. I love black walnut trees in bowl form :)
• Another one of our neighbors used the rest of the wood for winter fuel.

Black Walnut Negatives:

• Don't step on them; you can easily twist your ankle.
• Juglone toxicity can affect certain perennials that are close by.
• Black walnuts stain sidewalks, driveways, chairs -- just about anything. Anyone who has touched or held a black walnut casing knows what I'm talking about. Ugh!
• On hot, humid days entire walnuts have been pressed into the asphalt of our driveway if a car rides over them.
• Walnuts + lawnmower = dulled blades
• You can be hit on the head by the falling walnuts (especially on a windy day). I have a small flower bed not too far from black walnut tree branches that hang over our yard. In the fall when I work in that particular garden I wear a bike helmet -- seriously!
  
• Right now the squirrels are burying black walnuts everywhere. Consequently, in spring I have to dig out dozens of baby walnut trees that are growing in my flower garden. The squirrels outnumber me for sure, and *they* have nothing else to do all day. Walnut trees roots are tough to dig out, even when the they are tiny! Call me annoyed.

Fall transplanting came to an abrupt halt with this weekend's 31 degree weather, harsh winds and snow/rain. I had planned to move a few more daylilies, but I guess at this point I'll call it good for the season. Realistically, this kind of October weather is not uncommon in Wisconsin.

Transplanting this fall was quite a bit easier because I used a new transplanting helper tool that Ange fashioned out of a 4"x4" piece of wood. This tool was especially effective when digging my larger plants to make them easier to handle. If you've ever dug out huge daylily clumps, you know how heavy and unruly they can be!

You can do this by yourself, but it is much easier with two people. When digging out a huge daylily clump with your shovel, you can raise the plant up and wedge this wooden tool underneath the root ball so it is easy to use a claw tool to remove the excess dirt. You can clean the root ball off completely by wedging the tool on all sides the plant. The plant will be considerably lighter, especially if the ground is heavy with moisture after a rainfall. Then the plant is easy to re-locate or move to the dividing table. I'll take any help I can get to make this (sometimes) strenuous job easier.

Pictured: The daylily being transplanted in these photos is 'Woman's Scorn.'

Two garden helpers came to the rescue last Sunday afternoon, for which I was very grateful. My 'grands' made fall garden cleanup a breeze for me! The daylily scapes were flying as the two of them pulled off the dried-up scapes, put them in a wheelbarrow, and disposed of them in the field. This saved me an enormous amount of time. An A+ effort! After the work was done, Grandpa took them on a tractor ride to the farm next door to visit the goats.

Last week the daylilies got their haircuts (trimmed foliage) and medical checkups (weeded) in preparation for winter. It's a big job, but I like to have my gardens thoroughly in order before winter. Believe me, it saves a lot of work come spring. A few plants were dug out to remove dandelions that somehow ended up in the middle of the clumps. The recent rain we've had made that job quite a bit easier than I expected.

We have started moving daylilies around, as well. You know the drill, the trial-and-error garden game of getting the right plant in the right place (yet again). I plan to have that job completed within the next couple of weeks. I like to have all my transplanting done by mid-October to allow the daylilies to settle for about a month before we get a hard frost. (I'm not too happy about that thought...)

Where did the summer go? Mornings are getting cooler and mist-covered. Crickets are everywhere, and they are huge this year! There are only about 12 daylilies still blooming in my yard, but I am thankful for my late bloomers. They continue to add color to my flower beds when most of my other daylilies have dried up scapes and much of the foliage is starting to look ratty. I always trim my daylily foliage this time of year to keep my yard looking neater. After the trim I can check around each plant and make sure no moles or bunnies burrowed under or around them and pull out any invasive weeds that I couldn't see otherwise. Every single plant gets a check-up.

The recent fall-like weather has been great for transplanting. I appreciate every single day that I have been able to be outside.

Four of my late season daylilies pictured include:  'Deliverer' (coral), 'Heavenly Starbrite '(yellow-green), 'Hymn to Her' (pink), and 'Suzy Cream Cheese' (pale peach)

It's hard to believe it's October and time to put my garden to sleep for the winter. Fall clean-up has been a bit challenging this year. We've had many days of rain, and my days off from work have not always coincided with the nice weather. I finally had some great gardening days last week, despite the fact that I had to wear my winter coat.

Here are a few of my routine fall garden tasks:

• Remove any annuals that I don't want to re-seed. As you can see from the first photo, I removed dozens of marigolds. Not to worry, I still have dozens more blooming that keep my yard looking very autumn-ish. And yes, it's hard for me to pull these pretty annuals out of the ground, but it has to be done. There's only so much re-seeding I want to deal with next year.
• Transplanting - As all of you gardeners know, gardening is a trial and error experience, and I excel at trial and error. Consequently, there's always an ongoing transplant list waiting for me.
  
• Replace/re-do any rock borders that have cracked or fallen apart in our landscape, or re-situate the rocks where the moles have made them heave. Dang moles!
• Complete a thorough weeding of all my flower beds. I am always thankful I did this when spring arrives.
• Trim all the plants around the perimeter of our home to make sure no mice or rabbits decide to take up residence over the winter.
  
• Place a tomato cage over each one of my daylilies to protect them from getting trampled by the herds of deer that frequent our yard. The deer can do a lot of damage and the tomato cages really do help, especially with the new transplants.
• And finally, cleanup all of my garden tools and storage cabinet.
  

Every fall I make a point of giving my daylilies what I call their 'medical' checks. I like to examine each individual plant, pull out any weeds, determine that no moles have tunneled under or around them, and make sure that squirrels haven't buried any walnuts close by. When I do checkups I occasionally find a proliferation on an old daylily scape.

"A proliferation is a leafy shoot from a node or bract found on scapes of many cultivars. Small roots often form and occasionally a flower is produced while the proliferation is still on the scape. (Definition from the American Daylily Society.)

For those of you who are unfamiliar with daylilies, their seeds are not identical to either parent plant. A proliferation is one way to get an exact replica of the plant you have (in addition to plant division). I have had good results growing daylilies from proliferations. In fact, I have huge daylily clumps growing in my garden that started with just one tiny proliferation! It's also a fun way to share plants with friends.

When I find a proliferation I cut the scape off of the plant and place it in a plastic cup of water to grow roots. I have found that the roots will grow quicker if you use a clear plastic cup (as opposed to an opaque one). Important: Be sure to keep the water in the cup clean. The roots generally grow large enough to plant in a week or two.  I like to leave a good portion of the scape on both sides of the plant. When I eventually plant the proliferation in dirt, the scape gives the tender new daylily stability. The scape above the dirt will eventually dry up and fall off. I leave my proliferations in a pot for a few weeks to form roots, and from there I place it in the ground. In two or three years the proliferations pictured will bloom and look exactly like the beautiful 'Red Volunteer' pictured in the first photo. 

I have grown 'Red Volunteer' ever since I can remember having daylilies. It is reliable, consistent, big, tall, and gorgeous. In addition to other awards, Red Volunteer won the 'Lenington All-American Award' in 2004, which goes to one daylily each year voted the best performer over a wide geographic area. This midseason, dormant tetraploid was hybridized by William Oakes and introduced in 1984.   My plant grows 38" tall and the blooms are 7" or more in size. It is a definite wow! There will always be a place for Red Volunteer in my garden.

My three burgundy  ornamental fountain grasses have grown to almost 5 feet tall in front of our sun room. For fall landscape plants, they really makes a bold statement. When I planted them in spring, they were so tiny it seemed like they would never fill up the large space they were in. As you can see, they not only filled up the space -- they almost ran out of space!

Pennisetum setaceum 'Rubrum' (commonly known as Red or Purple Fountain Grass) is native to Africa, southeast Asia and the Middle East. In the U.S. it is hardy in Zones 9-11. In all other zones it is considered an annual. The genus name comes from the Latin penna meaning feather and seta meaning bristle referring to the flowers looking like feathery bristles, and rubrum means red.

I have done next to nothing as far as taking care of this grass. I just made sure it was watered well until it was established. Other than that, I pretty much just admire it. At only $4.99 per plant, it was totally worth it. I don't buy too many annuals, but this burgundy fountain grass is always a must-have.

Pictured is a portion of one of my backyard flower beds. All of my daylilies are tucked in, ready for their journey through winter. Each individual plant has had their annual "medical check-up," which includes gently pulling out the old scapes, removing any weeds, making sure no moles have tunneled around or under them, and no bunnies have made homes in them. The foliage has been cut so I can more easily see what is going on with each plant and to discourage any pests/insects to take up residence. I protect the newer plants with tomato cages so the deer don't try to eat or pull on any newly planted roots. I also use the tomato cages as reminders of where I have other things planted.

Fall is a great time to get rid of weeds. Consider this: Weeds that are spread by seed produce thousands of seeds. Lambsquarter can bear up to 72,500 seeds per plant, curly dock can bear up to 30,000, purslane 52,000, and redroot pigweed 117,000.  If even 50% of the pigweed seedlings germinated next spring, you'd have 58,000 pigweed plants to pull or otherwise get rid of. Better to get rid of them now! Here's a comprehensive list of Wisconsin weeds with photos.  I was glad to see Morning Glories appear on this list - I have been trying to get rid of them in a place I no longer wanted them for years.

Hopefully, you have all of your fall garden work done; winter is on the way.

Weed facts from the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension